Cuñapes/Pão de Queijo (South American Cheesy Bread) Recipe

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Why It Works

  • Slicing the cheese in preference to grating it affords you a lighter textured bread.
  • Fermented tapioca starch affords the bread essentially the most marvelous texture and flavor.
  • Letting the dough leisure overnight fully hydrates the starches for a fluffier texture.
  • The utilization of chilly milk leaves pops of gooey cheese working at some level of, while scalded milk affords you a extra evenly textured bread—the different is yours!

I am at all times searching for most in style and thrilling ways to incorporate extra cheese into my diet. In our wedding vows, my husband promised to own and to retain and to at all times retain the fridge stocked with three forms of cheddar. When the different to make a recipe for this South American cheesy bread arose, I skipped the total device to the dairy fragment, gleefully throwing blocks of Grana Padano into my basket.

In Bolivia, these rolls are referred to as cuñapes; in Ecuador and Columbia, they’re identified as pan de yuca; in Brazil, it is pão de queijo; and in Paraguay and Argentina, they plod by chipa. You additionally can’t forget the nutty Colombian spinoff, pandebono, which incorporates masarepa into the dough. Except for minor adaptations in methodology and cheese kind, they all depend on every cheese and tapioca starch for a courageous flavor and extremely chewy texture that is without delay compelling. To retain away from exhibiting favoritism to 1 nation over one other, I am factual going to call it cheesy bread. I scarf them down by the dozen, plucked genuine off the contemporary sheet tray, nonetheless they’re traditionally served with coffee as an afternoon snack.

Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


When made perfectly, the cheesy bread have to own a crisp crust with a chewy and lightweight internal. At its worst, the bread can even be soggy, dense, and heavy. They’re essentially the most simple bread you can originate—they require no kneading or proofing, factual a transient mix along with your hands to carry the total ingredients collectively—nonetheless the particulars originate the total distinction. I needed to test the total variables to advance motivate up with a recipe that’ll bake up factual genuine at any time when, it is miles rarely famous what you call them.

Tapioca Starch

Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


The fundamental ingredient in cheesy bread is tapioca starch. It be a finely milled starch, derived from the cassava root, with a squeaky texture the same to corn or potato starch. Cassava root, additionally identified as manioc or yuca, originated in northern Brazil, earlier than it spread at some stage in all of South America. This explains the occurrence of this many-named cheesy bread at some level of the establish of living.

Once tapioca starch is hydrated and cooked, it has every the chew of mochi and the stretch of Hawaiian poi. These irregular qualities of tapioca starch endow it with the texture of melted cheese even earlier than any cheese is added. The combo of this texture along with the flavor of the salty and appetizing cheese is what makes biting into this bread feel equivalent to you are eating heat cheese by the doughy fistful. Who could maybe withstand?

There are several brands of tapioca starch readily available and, even supposing it is miles originally a South American ingredient, quite lots of the brands readily available in the States are imported from Thailand. I needed to head attempting if there is a noticeable distinction between brands of diversified origins. I examined batches made with a Thai tag of tapioca starch versus Brazilian polvilho azedo and polvilho doce. The azedo starch is fermented earlier than processing, ensuing in a pleasantly bitter taste; it is miles referred to as for in most cheesy bread recipes at some level of South America. The doce starch is unfermented and is additionally feeble in some cheesy bread recipes, nonetheless most often it finds its device into truffles.

Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


I was as soon as greatly greatly surprised to search out that there are famous variations in every taste and texture between the three tapioca starches. The bread made with polvilho azedo was as soon as lighter in texture and had a heartier crunch than the bread made with the Thai starch. The Thai starch has a in point of fact comely texture, now not just like the Brazilian starches, which own a extra uneven grind. The imperfectly milled starch was a flawless closing baked bread, while the comely Thai starch made bread that was as soon as dense and heavy. The sourness of the polvilho azedo additionally emphasized the bright tang of the cheeses in a style that the polvilho doce did now not. It be positively worth the anguish of ordering polvilho azedo ought to you can desire to originate essentially the most flavorful cheesy bread.

The Queso Inquire

The form of cheese feeble in pão de queijo, cuñapes, or pan de bono is dependent on whether you are making them in Brazil, Bolivia, or Colombia, etc. Most recipes call for queso fresco, nonetheless it absolutely’s now not exactly love the Mexican queso fresco most often discovered around where I live. The particularities of every queso can differ greatly from establish of living to position of living. The queso most often feeble has the crumbly texture of Mexican queso fresco, mixed with the stretch of mozzarella, and the salty chunk of Parmesan. I truly own yet to search out this magical unicorn cheese in my corner of The extensive apple, nonetheless a mix of Cheddar and Grana Padano does the trick.

Once you would possibly per chance well want a care for on how the dough ought to composed ogle and feel, the cheese potentialities are never-ending. You own to regulate the amount of liquid or butter in the dough reckoning on the water and corpulent suppose of every cheese, nonetheless after some simple tweaks the bread will bake up factual comely with something else from a pungent blue to a briny feta.

Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


No matter what cheese you to desire, one amongst the supreme factors is whether or now not you exhaust chopped or shredded cheese. The bread made with chopped cheese was as soon as lighter and had melty pockets at some level of, while the bread made with shredded cheese was as soon as dense and heavy. This makes advantageous sense ought to you ogle at the adaptations in volume between chopped and shredded cheese of equal weight.

Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


Shredding cheese greatly will enhance its surface house and volume, which permits it to be extra evenly integrated into the dough. Once baked, the shredded cheese melts sooner than chopped, weighing down the dough and yielding an overly gummy and dense bread. On the different hand, the chopped cheese melts at a slower payment and creates microscopic pockets of steam within the bread that articulate his own praises and lighten the rolls.

Making the Dough

Once you are armed with the genuine tapioca starch and own retired your grater for the evening, it is snug crusing to cheesy bread land. There’s no want for a mixer, and even a spoon for that matter.

I mix collectively the tapioca starch with salt, baking powder, milk, butter, and eggs. After every little thing is evenly integrated, I knead in the cheese, taking care now not to overmix it. You like to own some uneven, tall chunks of cheese to live so they’ll melt into shock pockets of enjoyment.

Some recipes call for scalding the milk and others exhaust chilly milk as a exchange. Dough made with scalded milk extra evenly incorporates the cheese and bakes up correct into a uniform, round roll. On the different hand, dough made with chilly milk leaves microscopic clumps of cheese, which is in a position to burst by the bread’s crust for the interval of baking to originate a crisp and crackly edge. It be factual a matter of non-public preference, as effectively as regional habits—feel free to desire to scald or now not scald.

Even supposing you can bake the dough genuine away, letting the dough leisure overnight fully hydrates the starches for a fluffier texture. Gluten-free starches settle powerful extra time and a increased ratio of liquid to hydrate than wheat flour. At some stage in the overnight leisure, it is imperative to duvet the dough with plastic wrap pressed genuine onto the surface, the same to covering a pudding ought to you are on the no-pores and skin team. The dough swiftly dries out to the level of no return and all that cheese will be lost without a extinguish in sight below a laborious crust.

If it is your first time making cheesy bread, I strongly imply the exhaust of a scale till you gather accustomed to the texture of the dough. This dough feels very diversified from dough made with wheat flour. Straight after mixing it appears to be like every runny and thick, while after the overnight leisure it is brittle and dry. After you gather an understanding of how the dough ought to composed feel, plug wild: eyeball portions, try diversified cheeses, add seasonings. As long because the texture of the dough is genuine, you would possibly per chance well now not sleep with extensive outcomes at any time when.

I desire to originate the dough into two-hotfoot balls by rolling it between my palms. They’ll even be formed into increased or smaller rolls, logs for dipping into coffee, and even donut shapes. Subsequent, I originate an indentation in the bottom of every with the motivate of a wood spoon, which helps the dough bake evenly at some level of.

It is doubtless you’ll maybe per chance bake them genuine away and eat them while steamy and heat or the dough balls can even be frozen on a tray and bagged up for later. They bake up perfectly genuine from the freezer, factual love cookie dough, so you can without delay gather your cheese fix anytime.

Even supposing advantageous on their own, a dollop of jam in the middle of every baked roll can change into it correct into a hand-held cheese plate. Every infrequently I gather crazy and originate a grilled cheese out of a split bun. And in preference to the exhaust of English truffles, I could maybe originate an account eggs Benedict on high of a pair of cheesy breads genuine out of the oven. I judge in doing whatever it takes to assemble extra cheese in my lifestyles.

December 2017

Cuñapes/Pão de Queijo (South American Cheesy Bread) Recipe

  • 320g (about 2 1/4 cups) bitter tapioca starch (ogle notes)

  • 8g (2 teaspoons) Diamond crystal kosher salt; for table salt, exhaust about half as powerful by volume or the equivalent by weight

  • 4g (1 teaspoon) baking powder

  • 160g (2/3 cup) entire milk, chilly or scalded

  • 30g (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted

  • 2 tall eggs

  • 100g (3 1/2 ounces) bright cheddar cheese, chopped

  • 160g (5.7 ounces) Grana Padano cheese, chopped

  1. In a tall mixing bowl, mix tapioca starch, salt, baking powder, milk, butter, and eggs (for an evenly textured bread exhaust scalded milk; for pops of crusty cheese exhaust chilly milk—the different is yours). The utilization of your hands, knead dough till totally mixed, about 2 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


  2. Add chopped cheddar and Grana Padano to the dough. Knead gently to evenly distribute the cheeses while allowing some increased chunks of cheese to live, about 2 minutes.

  3. Quilt the tapioca dough with plastic wrap pressed at present onto the dough’s surface. Refrigerate overnight to enable the starch to fully hydrate.

  4. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and regulate oven rack to the middle space. Purchase away tapioca dough from refrigerator and roll into 2-hotfoot balls the exhaust of the palms of your hands. Manufacture an indentation in the bottom of every roll the exhaust of the motivate of a wood spoon or your thumb.

    Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik


  5. On a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet, organize the rolls leaving 1 hotfoot of house between them. Bake till puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes, rotating the pan as soon as for the interval of baking. Alternatively, freeze the rolls on the sheet tray till laborious, then transfer to a zipper-lock accumulate to store in the freezer. Bake from frozen as directed above.

Special Gear

Scale, rimmed baking sheet

Notes

This dough feels very diversified than dough made with wheat flour. After mixing, it appears to be like every runny and thick at the equivalent time, and brittle and dry after the overnight leisure. If it is your first time making it, I strongly imply the exhaust of a scale till you gather accustomed to the texture of the dough. After that, feel free to eyeball portions, try diversified cheeses, and add seasonings. As long because the texture of the dough is genuine, you would possibly per chance well now not sleep with extensive outcomes at any time when.

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